Bosnia and Herzegovina – A Balkan Gem That Deserves More Attention
- Anshu Azad
- 11 minutes ago
- 16 min read
Bosnia and Herzegovina may be a small country in the Balkans, but it has far more to offer than many travelers realize. Once part of the former Yugoslavia, this beautiful nation has emerged stronger after the devastating Bosnian War of the 1990s.
Sarajevo, the capital, is one of Europe's most fascinating cities. Walking through its streets, you can witness a unique blend of East and West. The city's museums and several historical buildings still bear bullet marks, a reminder of its turbulent past.
Despite its growing popularity, Bosnia and Herzegovina remains one of Europe's most affordable destinations. Hotels, restaurants, and local transportation are reasonably priced, making it an excellent choice for travelers seeking great value.
The ideal time to visit is between May and September, when the weather is pleasant and perfect for sightseeing and outdoor activities.
For Indian travelers, the visa process is relatively straightforward. Those holding a valid multiple-entry Schengen, UK, or U.S. visa or residence permit may be eligible to enter Bosnia and Herzegovina without obtaining a separate Bosnian visa. Travelers who do not qualify for this exemption will need to apply for a Bosnian visa in advance.
Arriving in Sarajevo: Getting to the City Centre
Sarajevo Airport is relatively close to the city, and getting into the Centre is fairly straightforward.
By Bus
If you are travelling on a budget, the airport bus is a convenient option. Buses connect the airport with central Sarajevo, including the area around Bascarsija, the historic heart of the city.
The bus is considerably cheaper than taking a taxi and there is space for luggage, with no separate charge for suitcases. Fares and schedules can change, so it is worth checking the current information at the airport when you arrive.
The Tourist Information Centre at the airport is particularly helpful. The staff can direct you to the correct bus stop and provide information about taxis, routes and other transportation options.
By Taxi
A taxi is the more convenient option if you have a lot of luggage or are arriving late at night. The fare to central Sarajevo is usually considerably more than the bus, and luggage charges may also apply depending on the taxi operator.
It is always better to confirm the approximate fare before getting into the taxi and use an authorized airport taxi service where possible.
Renting a Car at the Airport
If you are planning a road trip through Bosnia and Herzegovina, you can also pick up your rental car directly at Sarajevo Airport. Several major car-rental companies operate at or around the airport.
Currency in Bosnia and Herzegovina
The official currency of Bosnia and Herzegovina is the convertible mark (BAM), also commonly written as KM.
You will find ATMs and currency-exchange counters at Sarajevo Airport, so you can obtain local currency as soon as you arrive.
Be Careful with Airport ATMs
One thing to watch out for is ATM fees and currency-conversion charges. Depending on the ATM, your bank and the type of transaction, the final cost can be surprisingly high ranging from 10 to 20 Euros irrespective of the amount converted.
Currency-exchange counters are another option. Compare the displayed exchange rate and any commission before handing over your money but they are much better and cheaper converter option than ATM’s. Till July 2026, they were only charging fixed rate for conversion which was standard all across the country for converting any currency into BAM irrespective of the amount converted.
There are also numerous exchange offices in Bascarsija and central Sarajevo, so there is no real need to exchange a large amount of money at the airport unless you need cash immediately.
A Useful Tip
I would recommend carrying a small amount of BAM/KM in cash for initial expenses such as buses, small cafés, parking and local shops. For larger expenses, cards are increasingly accepted in Sarajevo and other tourist areas, although cash is still useful when travelling around smaller towns.
Where to Stay and Things to See in Sarajevo
The best place to stay in Sarajevo is Bascarsija, the city's historic heart. This charming old town is where most of Sarajevo's major attractions are located, making it the ideal for
exploring on foot.
For those looking for a luxury stay, the Sarajevo Marriott is located close to the Miljacka River and is just a short walk from Bascarsija. Most other hotels and apartments are also conveniently located around the city Centre.
Personally, I would prefer B&B near Bascarsija.
Bascarsija – The Soul of Sarajevo
Bascarsija is much more than just the old town—it's the cultural and social heart of Sarajevo. The cobbled streets are lined with traditional shops selling souvenirs, handcrafted copperware, jewelry, clothing, Turkish delights, and the famous Bosnian baklava.
The area is entirely pedestrian-friendly. If driving, there are several public parking areas around the old town.
The streets are also filled with cafés and restaurants serving authentic Bosnian cuisine. One dish you simply cannot miss is Cevapi (pronounced Chevapi) Bosnia's national favorite.
These delicious grilled minced meat sausages, traditionally made from beef or a mix of meats, are served with soft flatbread, chopped onions, and yogurt. It's a simple meal but one that locals absolutely love.
Bosnia's Love Affair with Coffee
One of the most fascinating aspects of Bosnian culture is its coffee tradition. Coffee here is not merely a beverage—it is a way of life.
Many cafés serve little besides coffee, and you'll often find locals spending hours chatting over a single cup. Bosnian coffee is very similar to Turkish coffee—rich, strong, and unfiltered. It is traditionally served in a copper pot with a small cup, accompanied by a piece of Turkish delight and a glass of water.
Don't rush through it. In Bosnia, drinking coffee is an experience meant to be savored.
Sebilj Fountain
One of Sarajevo's most photographed landmarks is the Sebilj Fountain, an elegant Ottoman-style wooden fountain located in the center of Bascarsija Square.
According to local legend, anyone who drinks water from the fountain is destined to return to Sarajevo one day. Whether or not you believe the legend, it's worth stopping here to admire the lively atmosphere of the square.
Sarajevo is fortunate to have exceptionally clean drinking water. Tap water throughout the city is safe to drink, and the water flowing from the Sebilj Fountain is also potable.
Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque
Just a short walk from the fountain stands the magnificent Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, built in the 16th century. It is one of the finest examples of Ottoman architecture and remains one of the most important religious sites in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
The mosque complex also includes the mausoleum of Gazi Husrev-beg, a madrasa, a library, and a beautiful courtyard.
Visitors are welcome inside the mosque outside prayer times, provided they follow the dress code. Women should wear clothing that covers their knees and shoulders and cover their heads.
The Clock Tower and the Famous Pekara
Standing beside the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque is Sarajevo's historic Clock Tower, one of the city's oldest landmarks. The tower is unique because it traditionally keeps lunar time, an old Ottoman system in which the clock is adjusted so that midnight coincides with sunset.
Just next to the clock tower is one of Sarajevo's most famous pekaras (bakeries). Bosnians are passionate about their bakeries, and almost every street in the city seems to have one.
This particular bakery is immensely popular, with queues often stretching onto the main street. It serves a tempting selection of meat, cheese, and spinach-filled pastries, sweet buns, pizzas, and the iconic burek—Bosnia's most famous pastry made from thin layers of filo dough filled with minced meat, cheese and spinach.
Sarajevo offers a number of gelato shops, cafés, and dessert stores. One dessert that quickly became my favorite was Krempita (Kreme Pita), a delicious custard-filled pastry. Turkish baklava is sold in almost every third shop in Bascarsija and many establishments here are dedicated solely to desserts and coffee, making the old bazaar a paradise for anyone with a sweet tooth.
One of these streets at Bascarsija from its many mazes eventually leads to the Eternal Flame, about a 15-minute walk from the old bazaar along Ferhadija Street. The Eternal Flame is a memorial dedicated to those who lost their lives during World War II. It was unveiled in 1946, exactly one year after Sarajevo was liberated from Nazi Germany, and the flame has continued to burn day and night throughout the year ever since.
Along Ferhadija Street, you will also come across the Meeting of Cultures line, a brass marker symbolizing the point where the Ottoman East meets the Austro-Hungarian West. Standing on this line, one can literally see the transition between the old Ottoman-style architecture and the elegant European-style buildings.
Yellow Fortress
Perched on a hill overlooking the heart of Bascarsija is the Yellow Fortress, one of Sarajevo's most popular sunset viewpoints. As evening approaches, locals and tourists make their way to the fortress to watch the setting sun. The walk uphill is as enjoyable as the destination itself. The route passes through charming streets decorated with fairy lights, coffee shops, a mosque, and later a large cemetery that quietly reflects Sarajevo's history.
One stop on this walk is almost impossible to miss—a bustling wood-fired pizza shop where pizzas are baked continuously. Many visitors buy a pizza to carry up to the fortress. By sunset, the fortress walls are lined with people enjoying their slices while soaking in one of the most spectacular panoramic views of Sarajevo. The fortress itself also has a small café.
Sarajevo is also known as a city of bridges. The Latin Bridge is undoubtedly the most famous, best known as the site associated with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, an event that triggered World War I. The car in which he was assassinated is on display next to the museum and one can take a picture too with this car.
The Miljacka River, has many bridges and one can take a lazy stroll along the river encountering and enjoying bridge after bridge, adding charm to the city's already picturesque streetscape.
The Assassination That Changed the World
Sarajevo occupies a unique place in world history. It was here, in 1914, that Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne, and his wife Sophie were assassinated near the Latin Bridge. The event triggered a chain of diplomatic and military actions that ultimately led to the outbreak of the First World War.
Near the assassination site, close to the Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina, visitors can see a replica of the open-top car in which the Archduke and his wife were travelling. Tourists can pose for photographs beside the vehicle free of charge, while a small fee allows them to sit inside for a memorable picture.
Museums
Sarajevo is a city of museums, ranging from the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina to the War Childhood Museum and the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide, visitors gain a deeper understanding of the country's rich cultural heritage and the hardships endured by its people.
Another must-visit attraction is the Tunnel of Salvation, the underground passage that served as Sarajevo's lifeline during the Siege of Sarajevo (1992–1996). Through this tunnel, food, medicine, weapons, and humanitarian aid reached the city.
Equally impressive is Sarajevo City Hall, an architectural masterpiece built during the Austro-Hungarian era. The building was heavily damaged by fire during the Bosnian War but has since been restored. Entry is ticketed, but the visit is well worth it.
For panoramic views, take the Sarajevo Cable Car to Mount Trebevic. The ride offers spectacular views over the city, while the mountain itself provides walking trails, viewpoints, and a peaceful escape from the bustling streets below.
I also recommend taking a ride on Sarajevo's tram network. Its inexpensive, and the tram passes through most of the city's major neighborhoods, making it one of the most economical and enjoyable ways to experience Sarajevo beyond the Old Town.
Sarajevo is a compact and easy-to-explore city. Spending three to four days here allows enough time to visit its historical landmarks, museums, viewpoints, and cafés at a relaxed pace.
Exploring Bosnia by Car: Travnik, Jajce and Beyond
One of the easiest ways to explore Bosnia and Herzegovina is by car. Renting a car is relatively straightforward, and having a driving license in English is important. An International Driving Permit is also highly recommended, particularly if you plan to rent from a larger international car-rental company.
Some of the rental agencies ask for a refundable security deposit, which can be substantial. Local rental operators can sometimes be a better option, as they may require a smaller deposit and their rental prices can also be negotiated.
Driving and Parking in Bosnia
Parking is generally quite easy in the towns and cities, although paid parking is common, particularly in Sarajevo and popular tourist areas.
Where parking meters are available, simply pay the required amount for the duration of your stay and display the parking slip clearly on your dashboard.
Travnik – A Charming Ottoman-Era Town
Travnik lies around 90 km from Sarajevo and takes approximately 1.5 to 2 hours to reach by car. This historic town is surrounded by mountains and has a distinctly Ottoman character.
One of the town's attractions is the Ivo Andrić Birth House, a museum dedicated to Ivo Andrić, the Bosnian-born author and Nobel Prize winner. The house is a ticketed attraction and also has a small café, making it a pleasant place to pause while exploring the town.
Travnik Fortress
Perched high above the town is the Travnik Fortress, medieval fortress offering wonderful views of the town below.
Plava Voda
Another pleasant stop is Plava Voda, a spring of clear, fresh water surrounded by cafés and greenery. It is a lovely place to sit, have a coffee and enjoy the cool, peaceful surroundings.
Jajce – The More Picturesque Stop
From Travnik, continue for another 70 km for Jajce. In my opinion, it is the more picturesque of the two.
The town is famous for its spectacular Pliva Waterfall, right in the heart of the historic town. There is ample parking near the waterfall, and the surrounding old town has restaurants, cafés and small guesthouses.
There is, however, a small catch when visiting the waterfall.
The main viewpoint allows you to see the waterfall from above and is free of charge. But if you want to get down closer to the waterfall, you need to follow the steep path down from the upper level. It is easy to miss this lower approach if you don't know about it. The lower viewpoint requires a ticket, but getting closer to the waterfall is well worth the effort.
There are also clean paid-entry restrooms near the upper area.
The Magical Pliva Watermills
After visiting the waterfall, make sure you continue to the Pliva Watermills, located further beside the beautiful Pliva Lakes.
The watermills are a historic cluster of small wooden mills that once used flowing water to grind wheat. Dating largely from the 18th and 19th centuries, they are one of the most charming sights around Jajce.
Today, the mills create an almost fairy-tale setting. Wooden walkways and footbridges connect the mills across shallow pools and narrow water channels. Some of the mills still have exposed mechanisms, giving visitors a glimpse of how these traditional mills once operated.
The interiors of most of the mills are not accessible. The real attraction is the setting itself.
The Pliva Watermills are an absolute must-visit.
Beyond the watermills, you can also wander through the gardens and paths along the shore of Pliva Lake. The lake itself is enormous and beautiful, surrounded by rolling green hills and small settlements.
Konjic
Another interesting day trip from Sarajevo is Konjic, around 60 km away and roughly 1.5 hours by car.
The town sits on the Neretva River and is famous for river rafting and beautiful bridge across the river which is pedestrian only. You will see a number of vendors providing river rafting experience.
This place is famous for Tito’s bunker and a lake which is 20 kms further from Konjic. Main attraction of this lake is Camping on the shores.
The road to the lake passes through mountainous areas with lot of bends and curves.
In fact, Konjic is on way to Mostar and due to paucity of time one can avoid the lake as it is a detour to the way to Mostar and one needs to come back another 20 kms back to the town and start for Mostar.
It is advisable to come back to town Konjic for Mostar. Do not follow google map which takes you to another route down the lake, the road further ends on top of mountain (AVOID THIS ROUTE…This was there till July 2026.)
Mostar – Bosnia’s Iconic City
Mostar is one of the most famous and visited towns in Bosnia and Herzegovina, best known for Stari Most, the magnificent historic stone bridge spanning the Neretva River.
The bridge and the old town attract visitors from across Bosnia and neighboring countries.
But Mostar deserves more than just a few hours.
The Scenic Drive from Konjic to Mostar
The drive from Konjic to Mostar is one of the most beautiful road journeys in Bosnia. The route follows the Neretva River Canyon, with dramatic mountains rising on either side of the turquoise-green river.
The canyon begins roughly 30 km after Konjic, and the entire drive to Mostar is around 70 km. Along the way, you can stop for food, coffee or for a short break.
If you are driving yourself, don't rush this stretch. Some of the best moments are simply stopping along the way to admire the river and mountains.
Staying in Mostar
There is no shortage of accommodation in Mostar, with everything from hotels to small B&Bs and guesthouses.
Staying close to the old town has one major advantage: almost everything can be explored on foot. Many of the B&Bs around the old town are in smaller buildings, so rooms can be compact, but being within walking distance of Stari Most more than makes up for it.
If you are travelling by car, you have more flexibility and can choose accommodation slightly farther away if you prefer larger rooms or better facilities.
Parking in Mostar
Parking is another thing worth planning in advance.
There are government-operated parking areas around the old town where parking can be considerably cheaper than some private car parks. Private operators may charge substantially more, so if you are driving yourself, look carefully for the official parking areas before leaving your car with a parking meter and pay basis the duration of stay.
Exploring the Old Town
The old town around Stari Most is exactly what you would expect from a historic Bosnian city — narrow cobbled streets, small shops, cafés and restaurants packed into the lanes around the bridge.
You will find shops selling souvenirs, clothes, handicrafts and local products, along with plenty of places selling gelato and coffee.
The best way to experience Mostar is simply to walk around without rushing. Stop at one of the restaurants or cafés, order a coffee, and enjoy the constantly changing view of people crossing the bridge.
Stari Most
Stari Most is the Centre piece of Mostar and easily the town's most photographed attraction.
The stone surface of the bridge can be quite slippery, particularly for older visitors. The authorities have installed stone strips along parts of the walkway to provide additional grip, but it is still worth taking care while crossing.
The bridge is also famous for its traditional diving tradition. Young men sometimes make spectacular dives from the bridge into the Neretva below, although this is a serious activity and should only be undertaken by trained local divers under appropriate conditions.
There are also speedboat rides on the Neretva, offering a completely different perspective of the bridge and surrounding cliffs. Prices and timings can vary, so check locally before booking.
How Long Should You Stay?
Although many visitors come to Mostar for a few hours, I would recommend staying for two or three nights if your itinerary allows.
This gives you enough time to explore the old town at a relaxed pace, see Stari Most at different times of day, enjoy long coffees and meals, and take a couple of day trips into the surrounding countryside.
Day Trips from Mostar
Mostar is also an excellent base for exploring some of the attractions in Herzegovina. Blagaj, Pocitelj and Kravica Waterfalls can all be visited as day trips.
Blagaj – A Serene Riverside Retreat
Blagaj is only about 15 km from Mostar and makes for an easy half-day or day trip.
The town is famous for the Blagaj Tekija, a historic Dervish monastery built beside the dramatic spring of the Buna River.
There is ample parking near the main attractions. If you are driving yourself, it is worth looking for parking closer to the monastery rather than using the larger coach parking areas which are farther away where one has to walk for a considerable distance.
The monastery is a ticketed. Around 15–20 minutes is enough for a quick visit, although you may want to spend longer simply enjoying the surroundings.
The riverfront is lined with restaurants where you can sit beside the water and have a
meal or a drink. Roadside stalls also sell fresh fruit, juices and other local products.
The Buna River and Cave
The area around the Buna spring is exceptionally peaceful.
To reach the waterfall and cave area, you need to cross the bridge and follow the path behind the restaurants on the opposite side of the monastery. Boat rides into the cave are also available.
Pocitelj – A Tiny Historic Town
From Blagaj, you can continue towards Pocitelj, a small historic settlement famous primarily for its Ottoman-era architecture and hilltop fortress.
It is easy to miss if you are driving quickly. The parking area is relatively modest and can look rather unassuming from the road.
The town itself is small, with a handful of shops selling homemade juices, honey, jams and souvenirs.
The main attraction is the fortress at the top of the hill. Reaching it involves climbing quite a few steps, but the views over the surrounding countryside are rewarding.
If you are short on time, you may decide to skip Pocitelj. Personally, I would prioritize
Kravica Waterfalls if you have to choose between the two.
Kravica Waterfalls – A Perfect Day Trip
Kravica Waterfalls is around 50 km from Mostar and roughly 40 km from Blagaj, making it an excellent day trip from the city.
And don't think of Kravica as just one waterfall.
It is actually a broad collection of waterfalls cascading over a large natural amphitheater. The individual falls are not particularly high, but their width and sheer number make the overall sight spectacular.
There is ample parking at the site, although parking fees and entry charges can vary and should be checked locally.
From the parking area, you need to walk downhill for roughly 500 meters to reach the waterfalls. The walk is manageable for most people, but there is also a small ticketed shuttle service for those who prefer not to walk, subject to availability.
A popular option is to walk down and take the shuttle back up.
Spend the Day at Kravica
Once you reach the bottom, the atmosphere changes completely.
The lake at the bottom is relatively shallow in many places, making it possible to wade through the water, while swimming is also popular when conditions permit.
There are restaurants and cafés around the site, along with sun umbrellas and chairs available for rent.
If you enjoy spending time outdoors, Kravica is not merely a quick photo stop. You can easily spend an entire day here — swimming, relaxing beside the water, having lunch and simply enjoying the spectacular landscape.
For a road trip through Bosnia and Herzegovina, the combination of Mostar, Blagaj, Pocitelj and Kravica makes for one of the most rewarding stretches of the journey.
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