Baku is emerging as the new jewel of Central Asia, rivalling Dubai and other Middle Eastern destinations. Since its independence from the USSR, Baku has rapidly modernized, fueled by a significant oil boom. The city’s flashy skyscrapers, expansive promenades along the Caspian Sea, affluent residents, and luxury cars make it a formidable competitor to the Middle East. Moreover, Baku offers a more affordable experience while boasting diverse attractions.

Azerbaijan blends the charm of Europe, particularly Paris, the buildings in Baku resemble the ones in Paris., with a touch of Middle Eastern flavor, making it a compelling destination for tourists. Often referred to as a mini Dubai, Baku is located on the shores of the Caspian Sea and is known as the "windy city" due to its constant strong winds.

View from Winter Park

In my opinion, 3-5 days are sufficient to explore Baku and its surroundings. The city is well-connected by air to most countries and attracts a significant number of tourists.

View from Courtyard Baku overlooking the Winter Park with the flame towers in distance

TAXIS

Taxis are readily available at Heydar Aliyev International Airport, and the BOLT taxi app works well in Baku. Be sure to have some Azerbaijani Manat (AZN) to pay the driver, as while most accept cards, some prefer cash. There is a currency exchange inside the airport, and a large bank right outside the exit gate if you miss the exchanger inside.

The city also has Uber, but you’ll need to download the Azer Uber app, as the standard Uber app doesn't work in Baku. It's advisable to use BOLT or Uber for transportation, as local taxi drivers often charge exorbitant rates. The fare from the airport to the city center is approximately 15- 20 AZN using these apps. The distance to the city center is about 25 km, and the journey takes around 30 minutes.

Baku offers numerous hotels, with many located around Nizami Street, the main area of the city. One can stay in the old city as well.

MONEY CHANGERS

Currency exchange services are limited in Baku, unlike Tbilisi, which has money changers on every corner. Banks usually handle exchanges without commission, but you’ll find few dedicated money changers. Nizami Street has some options, but they are sparse elsewhere.

You can also check with your hotel; some hotels have ATMs that convert USD or Euros into Azerbaijani Manat (AZN). For example, the Courtyard by Marriott in Baku offers an ATM with reasonable exchange rates.

BEST THINGS TO DO IN BAKU CITY

Baku old city – Icherisheher

Entry Gate to the Old City

The old walled city of Baku, built in the 12th century, is the first location in Azerbaijan to be classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Icheri Sheher exudes old-world charm with its narrow, winding lanes lined with small cafes and restaurants. The main points of interest within this historic area are the Maiden Tower and the Shirvanshah Palace. The Maiden Tower is of national significance, featured on the country’s currency and official letterheads.

The Maiden Tower

The walled city is enclosed within a fort, and many walking tours are available for a fee. Icheri Sheher contains numerous picturesque buildings, each with its own story; one notable building features three cats carved on its façade.

Some art pieces on the buildings in the Old City

Baku is a fascinating blend of old and new. The newfound oil wealth has spurred the development of modern, flashy architecture, creating a stark contrast with the historic buildings of the old city. This juxtaposition between the ancient cityscape and the newly built skyscrapers adds to Baku’s unique character.

Nizami Street and Fountain Square

Exiting the old city, you’ll arrive at Fountain Square and Nizami Street, adorned with beautiful fountains, cafes, and restaurants. This area is home to the Nizami Museum, dedicated to the famous Persian poet Nizami.

The Nizami Museum of Azerbaijan Literature 

Nizami Street is the most vibrant part of Baku, being one of the largest pedestrian and shopping streets in downtown Baku. It looks spectacular at night, offering a lively nightlife scene.

Some glimpses of the Nizami Street and Fountain Square

Nizami Street features a variety of high-end sit-down restaurants, offering a wide range of cuisines, including Indian, Italian, Mediterranean, European, Turkish, and, of course, Azerbaijani fare. While street food is less common, the culinary options are diverse. Some must-try Azerbaijani dishes for meat lovers include Qutab (pancake filled with meat), Dolma (grape leaves stuffed with meat), and Shah Plov (a rice-based dish with meat). Azerbaijani cuisine is inspired by Middle Eastern flavors and has an Iranian influence.

Nizami Street is a must-visit area in the city, hosting numerous hotels and souvenir shops (which are rare elsewhere in the city), as well as stores selling jewelry and Turkish artifacts. The sought-after money changers can also be found on this street.

Travel agents are plentiful on Nizami Street, offering day trips from Baku to places like Gabala, Gobustan, Mud Volcanoes, and Quba. You can negotiate rates and easily book your trips and plan your next few days. Alternatively, you can book tours online through websites such as www.viator.com, www.getyourguide.com, www.expedia.com, www.tripadvisor.com, or through your hotel.

Caspian Sea Promenade

The Promenade with the Crescent tower in the background

Just across Nizami Street lies the Caspian Sea Promenade, also known as Baku Boulevard. One important thing to remember in Baku is that subways are used to cross busy intersections. However, these subways lack lifts and escalators, requiring one to climb stairs frequently, which can be inconvenient for many.

The promenade runs parallel to the sea and features many kiosks selling ice cream, candy floss, coffee, and more. The boulevard offers stunning views of the sea, city skyline, and the spectacular Flame Towers, especially at night. This makes the boulevard an ideal place for families, tourists, and locals.

Walking along the boulevard, you will come across the swan fountains and the beautiful gardens surrounding them. A short distance away is the Little Venice attraction, inspired by the canals of Venice, complete with gondola rides available for a fee. The area is filled with cafes and restaurants, and the gondola rides and beautiful setting create a romantic atmosphere.

Little Venice

Adjacent to Little Venice is the National Carpet Museum of Baku. Azerbaijan is famous for its carpets, and here, you can see both contemporary and historical weaving techniques.

Just across from the Carpet Museum, you'll find the funicular that goes up to the iconic Flame Towers of Baku. The design and architecture of the Flame Towers symbolize Azerbaijan, known as the "land of fire." The trio of towers overlook Baku Boulevard and the Caspian Sea. The best time to witness these towers is at night when they are illuminated by LED screens, making them look like flames.

The Carpet Museum

Baku Boulevard is a hub of various activities, and one visit is not enough to experience all it has to offer.

The Flame Towers 

Heydar Aliyev Centre

Heydar Aliyev Centre

Another iconic architectural marvel in Baku, besides the Flame Towers, is the Heydar Aliyev Centre. Named after the first President of the Azerbaijan Republic, this building is a photographer's delight and a sight to behold. The famous white structure, designed by Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid, is an engineering marvel.

   Heydar Aliyev Centre

The entire complex is beautifully designed with white and black sculptures, complemented by lush green grass and numerous waterfall-type fountains. The white-colored center, with its harmonious landscaping, is truly impressive. The iconic "I LOVE BAKU" sign adorns the entrance.

  Heydar Aliyev Centre

Located halfway between the city center and the airport, the Heydar Aliyev Centre is a bit inconvenient to reach, but Uber and BOLT are quite affordable, costing about 3-5 AZN from the city center. Since there are no trees, benches, or resting areas outside the building, it's best to visit in the evening or when it’s not too hot. Be sure to check the temperature before visiting.

You can also visit inside the center for a fee. Though primarily a convention center, it hosts exhibitions, discussions, and other events. While I haven’t been inside the center myself, I’ve heard that it’s worth visiting.

  Heydar Aliyev Centre 

TRIPS OUT OF BAKU CITY

There are many interesting places to visit outside Baku on the Absheron Peninsula, and you can combine two or three sites in a day trip. It's advisable to combine Gobustan, Ateshgah, and Yanardag in one trip. Although this itinerary is a bit tight due to traffic and distances (Gobustan and Yanardag are quite far apart), it is manageable.

Gobustan

In Gobustan, you can explore the ancient petroglyphs and mud volcanoes, and visit the Bibi-Heybat Mosque, all in one day. This combination provides a diverse experience, showcasing the historical, natural, and cultural aspects of Azerbaijan.

 Gobustan - Petroglyphs

Rock Art  - At Gobustan, you can explore the petroglyphs with a combined ticket that covers both the museum and the open-air rock carvings. Gobustan is a UNESCO World Heritage site in Azerbaijan. The area features a rugged and beautiful landscape, and the carvings are among the best preserved and most vivid you can see. Some of these rock art pieces are over 40,000 years old and remain easily visible without blending into the surrounding rocks.

  Gobustan - Petroglyphs

ITS HOT - Since the rock carvings are exposed to the elements, it’s important to bring plenty of water and consider carrying an umbrella to shield yourself from the harsh sun. The rocks can become very hot in high temperatures, so be prepared for the heat.

 Gobustan - Petroglyphs 

Mud Volcanoes - Gobustan is renowned for its mud volcanoes, which are a major attraction in the area. These small mounds of bubbling mud create a surreal landscape that resembles an alien planet. Despite their appearance, the mud is not hot. Azerbaijan is unique for having these mud volcanoes, as they are found only here in the entire world. This otherworldly, moon-like terrain is a must-see for first-time visitors.

Mud Volcanoes

An important thing to note is that your hired car or taxi will not be able to drive directly to the mud volcanoes. You will need to switch to an old local taxi to reach the site. These local taxis will transport you to the volcanoes and bring you back to your original vehicle. You won’t need to pay the local drivers directly, as their fees are included in the total charge of your hired driver.

    Mud Volcanoes 

Bibi Heybat Mosque

On the return journey from the Mud Volcanoes, you can stop at the Bibi-Heybat Mosque. Although I did not go inside, the mosque’s exterior is a marvel of architecture, and the views of the Caspian Sea from the open terrace are breathtaking.

Bibi Heybat Mosque

Please note that the mosque has a dress code: in case wearing shorts, you’ll need to cover your legs. Loose pajama-like garments are available at the entrance for this purpose, and this applies to both men and women.

These are free of cost on use and return basis.

Ateshgah Fire Temple

Ateshgah - Fire Temple

Azerbaijan, known as the Land of Fire, truly lives up to its name at the Fire Temple of Baku. Located about 20 km outside the city, the Fire Temple, or Ateshgah, is a significant site of worship for Zoroastrians.

The temple is situated in a spacious complex with shops, cafes, and restrooms nearby. An entrance ticket is required to visit the temple: 9 AZN for foreign nationals, 2 AZN for locals, and 1 AZN for students.

Ateshgah - Fire Temple

You can also purchase a combined ticket for both Ateshgah and Yanardag. Alternatively, an individual ticket for Yanardag costs 9 AZN.

Yanardag

The final stop on the Absheron Peninsula trip is the famous burning mountain, Yanardag. According to legend, a shepherd in the 1950s discarded a lit cigarette on the ground, which ignited the small hill. Remarkably, the area has been burning ever since. The eternal flames are fuelled by vast reserves of natural gas in the Absheron region.

Yanardag

While the fire on the small mountain may not be as impressive as it sounds, it is still worth seeing. The best time to view the flames is after dark. However, the site closes around 7 pm, which can still be light during summer months.

Important Tip - If you arrive after closing, you can walk a short distance to the right of the main area to find an open space from which the fire is visible.

We arrived after the closing hours and the above picture is the one which we took from outside right to the entrance gate.

Trip to Guba and Khinalig

Khinaliq Village

One of the most fascinating trips outside Baku is to Khinaliq village. This journey is a long one, requiring an early morning departure. You can hire a car for the 230 km drive or book a tour through operators such as GetYourGuide, Viator, or Expedia. Alternatively, you can find many local tour operators on Nizami Street, where you can negotiate rates and book tours directly.

Unlike Georgia, Azerbaijan does not have a dedicated website like Gotrip for convenient online bookings. I arranged my trip through a local operator I discovered while strolling on Nizami Street. Often, college students sell these trips and then take you to their supervisor, who finalizes the details.

We were provided with a small Mercedes bus and an English-speaking guide— a college student who did guiding part-time as a side job during holidays and weekends.

Candy Cane Mountains

Our first stop was the colorful Candy Cane Mountains, located about 40 km from Baku. These red-pink and white striped mountains are not very high, making them relatively easy to hike. However, be cautious if it’s raining, as the trails can become very slippery.

Candy Cane Mountains

Quba (Guba) Town

The town of Quba, a gateway to the majestic Caucasus mountains, is surrounded by numerous small villages. One notable village is the Red Village, a charming Jewish mountain settlement where most houses are red. The village is predominantly inhabited by Jews and offers a unique cultural experience.

Synagogue in the Red Village

Qecresh Forest

On the way to Khinaliq, the highest village in the Caucasus Mountains, you’ll pass through the Qecresh Forest, the largest forest in Azerbaijan. Known for its dense foliage, this forest is a paradise for nature lovers. The area is dotted with small restaurants serving tea and snacks, and is beautifully illuminated with fairy lights.

You can stop at any of these charming spots to enjoy a cup of tea and soak in the forest's serene beauty. Some areas of the forest are so densely covered that they hardly receive any sunlight, creating a magical atmosphere. The restaurants also have washrooms and offer traditional Azerbaijani sweets, similar to baklava, sweetened with honey.

The route from Guba to Khinaliq, through the Qudyalchay Canyon, is one of the most scenic drives in the world. The entire journey offers stunning views and picturesque vistas, leading you to one of Azerbaijan’s highest and most remote villages.

Qudyalchay Canyon

Eagle Point 

Eagle Point

Along the route, you’ll find Eagle Point, a small hill where a statue of an eagle perches at the top. This spot offers a stunning view of the valley and is a perfect place to stop and admire the scenery. There isn’t much to do here except enjoy the panoramic views.

Khinaliq Village

Upon reaching Khinaliq, you'll find it to be a fascinating place. The Khinaliq people are distinct from other Azeris, often with green eyes, and have preserved their unique traditions and language. The village is quaint, with unpaved roads, giving it a serene, untouched charm.

Khinaliq Village

Tour operators often arrange for a traditional Khinaliq meal, featuring a variety of meats, vegetables, and sweets. This culinary experience is a highlight of the trip and allows you to fully immerse yourself in the local culture.

TIP to REMEMBER – Please check the weather before travelling to Khinaliq. The weather in mountains is treacherous. It can rain any time and once it rains the entire valley is covered with clouds and the view is not clear. Khinaliq the journey to it is enjoyable in the clear weather.

Valley on way to Khinaliq Village 

Baku is a complete package for everyone. From majestic city to mountains, sea and river. You don’t need to go anywhere else as it gives you the feel of everything.